Rioja

PLEASE NOTE THAT THIS IS AN OLD OFFER AND THOUGH WE CONTINUE TO STOCK WINES FROM PATERNINA AND BERCEO THE WINES MAY NOT BE THE SAME PRICE OR MAY NO LONGER BE AVAILABLE.

The wine region of Rioja, as distinct from the political region of the same name, is centred on the valley of the River Ebro, though it takes its name from a small tributary called the Rio or River Oja. The region’s climate varies from relatively cool and damp in the west, due to moisture-laden winds from the Atlantic, to warm and dry in the east, due to the influence of the Mediterranean.

The region is divided into three zones. Rioja Alta is the western, higher part, south of the Ebro, together with a small part north of the river between Haro and Laguardia. Rioja Alavesa is that part of Rioja in Alava. This Basque province is almost another country, with its own language and culture. The political distinction is why Rioja Alavesa is split into two, whereas there is no great difference in the wines. The main variety here is the aromatic Tempranillo, which thrives on the yellow, calcareous clay soils and ripens reliably most years.

The third region is Rioja Baja. This warmer region with varied soils and a mix of crops is considered to make inferior wines, mainly from the fruity, alcoholic Garnacha. This reputation is not always accurate, especially in recent years, but it was such that the boundary of Rioja Alta was extended east of Lograno to encompass the historic bodegas of Marques de Murrieta Castillo Ygay, to keep it out of Rioja Baja.

The Wines of RIOJA

Historically, Rioja’s reputation was made by Bordeaux negociants in the late 19th century.  With their own vineyards ravaged by phylloxera they came to Rioja to find wine for blending, bringing with them small oak casks. Their legacy was small-scale production of wine by farmers who sold their product to be aged in American oak barrels for many years by large Bodegas for whom blending and elevage was the key, rather than geography and winemaking.
 
Since the 1980s this has begun to change. Large Bodegas have started to buy their own vineyards and work more closely with growers. At the same time the red wines have become less dominated by oak, with less time spent in cask and greater use of French rather American barrels. The whites are now fermented at low temperatures and either un-oaked or spend a limited time in new barrels. And the rosé wines are more vibrant and less alcoholic as the Garnacha grapes are harvested earlier and fermented in stainless steel.

These modern styles of Rioja have brought about a sustained growth in sales, particularly for the premium wines that are aged in oak. An impressive 60% of all Rioja is now of Crianza or Reserva level, a real change from the days when cheap, unoaked Tinto Joven or ‘young wine’ was the main volume product. Whether red, white or rosé, quality has never been so good and so now is the time to try some of the exciting new wines on offer. We guarantee you will not be disappointed.

Over the following pages, we introduce the wines of four renowned producers. The selection includes red, white and rosé wines that together they show the diversity of the best Rioja wines today. You can make your own selection from amongst them and get free delivery on your order. Or why not try the sampler case detailed overleaf and save 10% on our prices?

Bodegas BERCEO

This family-owned Bodegas was founded in 1872 and is almost unique in Rioja in that it produces wine solely from its own vines. It has 52 hectares of vineyards spread across all three regions. For the Vina Berceo wines, this allows winemaker Jacques Humeau to blend to a consistent style each year. Two award-winning single vineyard wines are also produced from ancient Tempranillo vines.

The grapes are all hand-picked and fermented in temperature controlled vats to retain aromatic complexity. A mixture of French and American oak barrels are used according to the wine. The aim is to ensure a balance between the oak and fruit flavours whilst retaining the essential Rioja character.

ES0296W    Vina Berceo Blanco 2006, Rioja, Spain  13%  £7.49
Made from 100% Viura, this white Rioja was fermented in new oak barrels and aged there for a further 6 months with regular ‘battonage’ of the yeast lees to give complexity. It was then bottled without fining or filtration to retain the vibrant flavours. It has a bold, oaky style with intense flavours of citrus fruits, marzipan, toasted almonds and apple blossom. Tangy acidity gives freshness to balance the delicious vanilla oak and subtle herbal notes add complexity. A thoroughly modern white Rioja. Drink to 2009

ES0306P     Vina Berceo Rosado 2006, Rioja, Spain  13% £6.99
This impressively complex rosé is made from Garnacha, Tempranillo and Viura grapes that were fermented separately and at low temperature before blending. It has a comparatively deep red colour, which is matched by the powerful bramble fruit flavours. Freshness and lift are given by citrus, damson and herbal flavours and a tangy grapefruit finish that is not too dry. Drink now to 2009

ES0313R    Vina Berceo Crianza 2003, Rioja, Spain  13%  £8.99
This is Bereco’s benchmark wine and one of the best Crianza’s we have come across. A blend of Tempranillo, Garnacha and the rare Graciano, it was aged a year in a mixture of French and American oak barrels. Gorgeous vanilla, cherry and sweet plum aromas blended with exotic spices. Silky damson and berry fruit flavours in the mouth. Juicy, mouth-watering style with creamy vanilla coming through on the long aromatic finish. Delicious now but will keep to at least 2010.

Bodegas CARLOS SERRES

This huge, modern Bodegas situated on the outskirts of Lograno sources grapes and wine from all over Rioja. Though one of the largest producers it is also one of the most progressive and has been particularly prominent in raising the standard of Rioja at all quality levels. Any wine that does not meet its high standards is declassified and sold as Vina de Mesa. And in fact we buy some of this declassified wine under the Prensa Real label.
Many of you will already be familiar with the excellent Carrizal wines. The Viura is one of the best value white Rioja’s we have found and we have just received the new vintage of the Crianza. The modern, fruit driven style means that the 2003 is already drinking beautifully. A new wine for us is the Tinto Joven. Though the fruit is young and vibrant, a small proportion of the wine was aged in American oak barrels to round out the flavours and give a touch of toasty vanilla. It is superb value at just £5.25.

ES0205W    Carrizal Viura 2005, Rioja Blanco, Spain  11.5%                                           £5.49
Modern white Rioja, pure and zesty with refreshing flavours of peach, lanolin and vanilla. Has just the slightest touch of oak aging to round out the flavours yet retain the fruit character. Drink now to 2009

ES0026R    Carrizal Tempranillo Tinto Joven 2006, Rioja, Spain  12.5%                      £5.25
This new wine in the Carrizal range is textbook Rioja: rich, luscious with a creamy edge and flavours of spicy cherry, liquorice, vanilla and redcurrant. A small proportion was aged in new oak barrels and this has given warmth and roundness to the blend and an attractive aromatic dimension. Enjoy to 2009

ES0033R    Carrizal Crianza 2003, Rioja, Spain  12.5%                                                    £6.75
A blend of Tempranillo and Mazuela (known as Carignan in France) aged 12 months in a mix of French and American barrels. Intense smokey, raspberry aromas with notes of cinammon and clove. Medium bodied yet flavoursome wine with plenty of ripe fruit and a nice piquancy. Balanced and long on the finish. Good value. Drink now to 2010

Federico PATERNINA

The Paternina brand is the top-selling Rioja in Spain. Though by no means the largest Rioja producer, the majority of its wine is sold under its own name rather than in bulk or bottled under supermarket labels. The produce of their own 150 hectares of vineyards in Rioja Alta is supplemented by grapes from growers throughout the region, with whom winemaker Carlos Estecha León works very closely.

The company was founded by Federico Paternina Josué in 1896 by merging three wineries in Ollauri, in the Rioja Alta. As a result he secured the 16th Century cellars, dug into the massif on which the town sits. The four 150m long caverns are still used today and store almost 4 million bottles. Winemaking takes place at a new winery in Haro, constructed in the 1990s and financed in part by selling 27% of the company’s shares on the Spanish stock exchange. By reputation a very traditional Rioja producer, Paternina continues to invest in new facilities and the wines just get better and better each year.

ES0273R    Paternina 'Banda Azul' Crianza 2003, Rioja, Spain  12.5%                         £6.75
75% Tempranillo, 25% Garnacha aged 12 months in American oak barrels. Lively aromas of spicy black cherry, liquorice and musk. Smooth and warming with plenty of red berry fruit flavours, vanilla oak and notes of exotic spices. Classic Rioja style with vibrant fruit and new oak to the fore to enjoy to 2009.

ES0281R    Paternina 'Banda Roja' Reserva 2001, Rioja, Spain  12.5%                      £8.50
A blend of Tempranillo, Garnacha and Mazuelo aged 2 years in American oak. Medium ruby, garnet colour. Lively cherry and raspberry aromas with notes of vanilla and exotic spices. Silky smooth with mouth-watering redcurrant and berry fruit flavours, subtle tannins and a lingering lightly spicy finish. Traditional Reserva style, with well-integrated oak and good acidity to enjoy now or keep to 2011.

Bodegas LUIS GURPEGUI MUGA

The Gurpegui family have been producing wine in Rioja for over a hundred years. Historically, most of the wine has been bought in, blended and bottled and then sold in Spain. However, the latest generation, led by Javier Gurpegui, has been much more outward looking. In addition to purchasing their own vineyards in Rioja, they have extended their holdings to Navarra, Extremadura in the west of Spain and even to Chile.

In Rioja there are now over 100ha of vineyards and almost all the production is from their own vines. Over 20% of the wine is exported under the Riazan name, a wise choice perhaps given the difficulty in pronouncing ‘Gurpegui’ outside Spain. Winemaker Raquel Grandival makes a comparatively weighty style of Rioja with balanced oak and the structure to age well. They are also very reasonably priced.

ES0366R    Riazan Tinto Joven 2006, Rioja, Spain  13%                                                  £5.99
Clean, soft and deeply coloured red from mainly Tempranillo. Subtle cherry and berry fruit aromas with hints of spice. Surprisingly smooth on the palate with good weight of plum and cherry fruit flavours enhanced by a touch of vanilla oak. Very attractive young wine for current drinking. Drink now to 2009

ES0353R    Riazan Crianza 2003, Rioja, Spain  12.5%                                                      £7.49
A blend of hand-picked Tempranillo, Garnacha and Graciano grapes fermented in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks and then aged in French and American oak barrels for just over a year. Lovely intense aromas of cherry, vanilla and exotic spices. Smooth and velvety in the mouth with plum and black cherry to the fore and notes of wild strawberry and damson. The long, aromatic finish is particularly impressive. Delicious now but there is sufficient structure with ripe tannins and integrated acidity to improve over the next 2 to 3 years. Enjoy through to 2011

copyright © 2010 Hawkshead Wines Terms and Conditions
Hawkshead Wines is a business name of New Fine Wines Company Number 4508603. Registered Office: 114 Birchfield Road, Northampton, NN1 4RH.