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Domaine Des Baumard

Rochefort-Sur-Loire, France

'Savennières, the Montrachet of the Loire Valley, produces dry Chenin Blanc that can age 15-20 years and possess an intensity, richness and complexity that one has to taste to believe. These are sensationally rich, intense wines that develop a complexity and huge, floral bouquet after 7-8 years of cellaring. The wines start life relatively backward and tart, but if you are looking for a great dry white wine that can out-age most Chardonnays, check out a Savennières.'

I first read these words by Robert Parker almost 15 years ago. Being young and enthusiastic I was keen to taste the best wines in the world. My limited budget however meant searching for under-valued wines from relatively unknown regions and Parker's prose set me off on a hunt for the wines of Savennières; in particular those from his most highly rated producer, Domaine des Baumard.

Since that time I have been captivated by the range of wines produced by the Baumard family and have never been without a case or two in my cellar. When I tentatively started my own wine business, these were the sort of wines I wanted to share with my customers. Initially, however, I specialised in the best wines from the New World, since the top European producers were already well established in the UK.

In 1996, I started Hawkshead Wines with the aim of bringing the best value wines to individuals throughout the UK. As the business has grown we became more confident in searching out premium wines that over-deliver at their price point, whatever their origin. So a few years ago, I asked Florent Baumard if we could sell his wines in the UK. There is great demand for his top wines but he was persuaded by the opportunity to bring them to a wide range of discerning customers, mostly unknown to London's fine wine merchants. In this way, I hope that the relatively unknown wines of Savennières will start to command the profile and prestige they undoubtedly deserve.

Greg Shaw

Domaine des Baumard

Established in 1634, the domaine produced wine until the vineyards were ravaged by phylloxera in the 19th century. They then turned to nursery work, raising vines for sale. In 1955, however, Jean Baumard decided to return the family business to viticulture and purchased vineyards in Quarts de Chaume and Savennières, renowned for their sweet and dry wines respectively. His dedication and skill raised the domaine from obscurity to the forefront of Loire winemaking.

In the early 1990s his son, Florent, took over and quality has if anything got even better. Following an extensive tasting, The Wine Spectator wrote: 'Florent Baumard is one of the world's best wine-makers, and you probably don't know him. That's because he produces Chenin Blanc from the Loire Valley, an all-too-often overlooked region. Perhaps that will change following his most recent performance in the exceptional 2005 vintage.'

The winery is situated in the old Logis de la Giraudière at Rochefort-sur-Loire on the south bank of the Loire, 20km south west of Angers. The vineyards of Savennières are on the north bank opposite and those of the Coteaux du Layon and Quarts de Chaume are on the banks of the Layon river, a Loire tributary. Though it doesn't say on the label, the vineyards are managed organically. Only natural pesticides are used and the land between the vines is alternately ploughed and left to grass, to help preserve the natural environment. In the winery, modern technology is used to ensure hygienic conditions, prevent oxidation and preserve the natural grape quality. This is carried through to 'elevage' in which no oak is used and many of the wines are bottled until Stelvin screwcap.

Every wine produced reflects its origin and the vintage conditions but if there is a 'house' style, it is for rich, aromatic wines with elegance, racy acidity and a poise and balance that is the envy of most winemakers. The wines, for those who have the patience, can also be tremendously long-lived.

We stock nearly all of Florent's wines, including some that are no longer available from the Domaine and we strongly recommend them all. To see those wines we have available currently, click here.

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